Five tips to get your capsule wardrobe sorted for winter

Winter is here, and I need a whole new wardrobe!!

Fear not – I’ve been shopping in the garage and not the mall. I’ve laid all my winter and autumn clothes out, and I’m ready to chose 30 items for my winter capsule wardrobe.

What is a capsule wardrobe?

About three months ago, off the back of the six items challenge (six clothes for six weeks), I opted to put only 30 items back in my wardrobe for the duration of Autumn. This is called a capsule wardrobe, and it generally includes 30 main items, with unlimited use of accessories, underwear, active wear and shoes. Click on this link to view my video about that decision.

Why a capsule wardrobe? To make my morning routine easier, to continue on my path of living more minimally out of respect for the environment, to declutter, and to just be mindful of my consumption.

Here are a few tips to curate your capsule wardrobe
(winter-themed, of course):
  1. Be practical. Make sure you have enough warmth for the following three months. And remember, it is only three months so if you have trouble letting go of something, it’ll be back in your grubby paws before you know it.
  2. But not too practical!!! Got any favourite pieces from your autumn wardrobe? If they are warm enough for winter, keep them. You can always add an extra layer. Hold on to the things you love!
  3. Put together outfits (like I have below) so you can see what works. That way you can see the mix and match possibilities, and you already know what you have when you’re late in the morning.
Winter Capsule

Check out what my winter looks like.

  1. Colour coordinate. This is pretty easy because in winter everything tends to be dark so you can easily mix and match. At the same time, don’t be afraid to add a touch of colour to that.
  2. Be versatile. Think about how to dress items up and down. I find you can almost lift any outfit for a night our with high heels, lipstick, a great jacket and attitude!
My Choices

Two jackets. 1 pair of kick-flare cropped jeans (love these from Nobody Denim). Three skinny casual pants (black, floral and blue). One black dress (this one is all seasons) and a denim pinafore. Also, a black stretch pencil skirt, leggings and a neat pair of dark blue trousers. Two cardigans, two knit jerseys plus two cotton long-sleeved tops. Add a peach shirt and a denim shirt plus a mustard dress shirt. There’s a black and white tunic plus one cotton black v-neck (also an all season one) for a total 21.

I’m leaving room for one more jersey (a black turtle-neck knit above the knee if I can find one), and well… I don’t need any more. I could allocate the space to 5 pairs of shoes, two scarves, and a hat to get to 30. There’s people out there who do exactly that – include everything in the 30.

I don’t have a special occasion outfit per se, but there’s plenty here that I can dress up.

By the way, a capsule wardrobe doesn’t come with hard and fast rules, so you can change items if you want to. It’s up to you really. It’s about being mindful about our clothes, valuing them and caring for them (and thereby taking note of who made them and how). If we just add or change at a whim, we are no longer being actively mindful, and then the reason is lost.

Good luck and let me know how you get on.

5 reasons ethical fashion is not more expensive than fast fashion

There is a perception that sustainable ethical fashion is expensive.
Of course it depends on how you look at it.

Dirt cheap has become normal. But actually, way back when (it wasn’t even that long ago) clothing was generally ethical and sustainable. It was locally-made using natural dyes and was designed to last for years. These clothes were the norm, but as fast fashion spreads and grows (like fungus) churning out cheaper and cheaper clothing, we perceive the cost of clothing to be less than what it truly costs.

Screen Shot 2017-05-13 at 2.05.53 PMIn spite of that, when you love clothes but need to eat, a $5 cheap t-shirt wins over that gorgeous organic cotton Kowtow top for $60. But wait – as they say – you can have the organic cotton top and not break the bank.

Since becoming an ethical sustainable fashionista,
I have actually saved money. How?

  1. Take that Kowtow cotton top. Pure organic cotton clothing (so no blends) is durable, retains shape and colour and holds less odour. In other words it kicks the backside of cheap cotton (which lasts a season and shrinks or stretches along the way). You won’t need to buy another top for years.
  2. There aren’t many ethical and sustainable fashion brands in my neighbourhood (nowadays they live in big cities, or online marketplaces) which makes the purchase/return process (especially from US or UK to NZ) more risky. As a result, I browse as much, but buy less. I have to really like it to buy it.
  3. Because I really like it, I will wear it often, and for a long time. A 100 wears (check out hashtag #100wears) of any garment is a pretty good use of the garment.  With more items I actually like and actually wear, I have less reason to buy more.
  4. I have come to understand the true cost of fast fashion and it has tainted my taste for cheap garments. Whether it’s part psychology part material, I don’t know, but the clothes just don’t feel good anymore.
  5. Ethical and sustainable clothing manufacturers value longevity and durability of material as well as human relationships (the suppliers and not just the consumers). This results in high quality clothing and brands that will last the distance. They care about people. Fast fashion brands – let’s be honest – only care about $$$. I’ve come to prefer the reliability and quality of ethical, sustainable brands.

HOWEVER… I did have to make a mind shift to stop myself from shopping shopping shopping. And it took a couple of years. I didn’t just suddenly wake up and exercise restraint. For me, it took time. 

Now that I am here, I could not be happier. I have a small wardrobe of lovely, mostly high quality, mindfully-made items that reflect my style and work well together. I feel great and that means I look great.

I recently watched a doco on Netflix called the minimalists. Their experience and the those of the people they interviewed really resonated with my experience.

 

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 READ MORE HERE:

Here are a couple of articles you might like to read on whether ethical clothing is pricey.

This one from HuffingtonPost is great in highlighting that ethical and sustainable garments reflect the true cost (both social and environmental) of clothing, while this one from Project Just gives you some tips on how to shop cheaper. They have put vintage, trade and swap up top, with points 5 and 6 covering researching ethical brands and shopping quality.

 

View story at Medium.com

What did they say?

Fashion Revolution week ends, but the cause doesn’t.

Never stop questioning who made your clothes.

During Fash Rev Week, as they call it, I asked Ice breaker, a New Zealand outdoor active wear brand that specialises in Merino wool, and Everlane, a US-based online fashion retailer with strong transparency principles, about their ethics.

I approached Everlane because I like their clothes, and have read over and over that they are ethical. They get the ethical badge because they divulge where their garments are made, that they audit suppliers, and show images of the supplier factories. But does that make them ethical? Not really as it turns out. They’ve been accused of greenwashing – when you use PR/marketing to exaggerate your ethical/sustainable values when unable to back it up – largely because the stories about their garment origin offer no real information about, for example, the safety of the factory and living wages, animal welfare, dye toxin disposal. I was a little heartbroken so I thought why not just ask. It is after all a week to be revolutionary!

I chose Ice Breaker because I love NZ-made merino clothing, and am a big outdoors fan. I own a pair of their leggings and they really served me well on a three-day hike. But the day that I drove out to go on my big walk I read that the Baptist World Aid Ethical Fashion report ranked them the lowest of all NZ Brands. How disappointing.

Everlane was awesome in their reply. Not only did they take my email seriously but they explained in some detail their supplier compliance processes including instant dismissal over labour exploitation. They explained about their use of dyes, animal welfare, even going so far as to say that silk is generally not sourced without harm and is then best avoided. While they still didn’t divulge some aspects I felt assured by the following, a small part of the email:

“… as we continue to grow as a company we strive to know more about the details of our products–from seed to stitch–in part so we can be as fully transparent as possible with our customers.

Regarding our manufacturing partners, all of our factories abide by standards set by the International Labor Organization (goo.gl/ZVPdgU), which include prohibitions on compulsory and child labor, discrimination, and the right to free association and collective bargaining. In fact, if we encounter evidence of child labor, human trafficking, physical/sexual/psychological abuse, or discriminatory practices we will cut ties with the guilty party immediately.”

Most importantly, Everlane acknowledge they could do better and are improving everyday. They want to be regarded as an ethical brand. Am I being greenwashed because I like their clothes? I’m going to get a second opinion, so I’ll share what I find out.

I have yet to hear back from Ice Breaker, but to be fair it was only today that I got in touch! Again… I’ll update as always.

Did you get in touch with anyone? What did they say?

I’ll leave you with this pointer from Margaret Mead, borrowed from encircled. It resonates with me, not only because it’s true but because I studied anthropology and Margaret Mead was a well-known if sometimes controversial cultural anthropologist who studied people in the South Pacific not too far away from here as it happens.

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Be curious, be revolutionary

Fashion revolution week starts today.

What is it? Fashion Revolution Week and the #whomademyclothes hashtag campaign runs in April around the same time as the Rana Plaza factory collapse happened in 2013. The event is more than commemorative, it is designed to raise awareness about who makes our clothes, calling on us – consumers – to ask for greater transparency from our fashion retailers.

The factory in Bangladesh made worldwide news when its collapse killed more than 1,130 workers but, more importantly, it also spurred the industry to make changes. As a result global fashion brands and retailers and trade unions are working together to build a safe Bangladeshi ready made garment industry.  There is still a lot of work to be done however, as I always feel, something is better than nothing.

Fashion Revolution Week is about so much more than the terrible event. It is gaining incredible movement globally as the week to raise awareness and ask who made our clothes. As they say:

“Much of the global fashion industry is opaque, exploitative and environmentally damaging and desperately needs revolutionary change. We love fashion, but we don’t want our clothes to come at the cost of people or our planet.”

That’s how I feel, and I put my support behind them.

Who made your clothes? Maybe for this week or this year, I challenge you to look at one item you love in your wardrobe and try to find information about who made it. If you can’t immediately find the information, contact the brand and ask. The more we ask, the more fashion brands will understand our desire for transparency! GOOD LUCK!!

If you’re wondering who made my dress shirt – It was made in Jiangmen, China for Everlane. It’s been really disappointing actually for me because I read several blogs telling me Everlane was this amazing ethical brand. Their website certainly showed vast transparency of where their clothing was made. But actually, they are not as ethical as I would like my clothes to be. Yes, Everlane are transparent, but this doesn’t automatically mean ethical. At the time of checking, Everlane wasn’t on the GOODonYOU app, but now when I check it, it says its ‘not good enough’ (booo).

My mission for fashion revolution week is to try to change that!!

Flash alert – ethical guide released

Baptist World Aid Australia have released their 2017 guide to how well – or poor – fashion brands in Australia and New Zealand are shaping up when it comes to ethical suppliers. Click here to view it.

This guide is excellent and is setting the standard in ethical fashion rating for this region. While some of the brands asked to submit their supply chain practices did not do so, and therefore it might seem not wholly representative, the report explains this and why they’ve rated these particular companies anyway.

NZHerald published this story and it featured on TV this morning.

It’s great to see companies getting better. That’s what happens when consumers demand better ethical practices! Yay to us! And well done to them! 🙌

Finished, Far & Wide

Finished!

It’s been a challenge but I’ve loved the experience. I’ve also loved being reunited with my wardrobe. But I am a changed person. Here’s my take on finishing the challenge.

But before I kick off, I want to extend a very warm welcome to new followers to the blog. Hello! I look forward to us sharing and caring together.

So the story has gone far and wide. *blush* I’m just pleased that the message about being more conscious about consumption is getting out there. It shows that people care and are interested. The response has been great, and it spurs me on.

Here are links to the stories if you want to see them:
1. Stuff.co.nz
2. DailyMail
3. NZHerald

I start again. But instead of putting everything back into my wardrobe, I put back 30 items. My capsule wardrobe begins.

Here’s a great article about the capsule wardrobe from the master Anushka Rees, who’s blog first introduced me to the idea a couple of years ago. This 101 blog is quite long, but the gist is to choose 20-30 items that work together for a season. They reflect your style, your ethics even. You might swap a couple of items over the season, but always the total remains the same. Importantly you are deliberately conscious of your choices and minimalist. You decide if this should include active wear, or work uniforms or perhaps shoes. It depends on your needs.

I’ll be writing more about this and what choices I’ve made.

Plus a few other interesting topics as I go. Stay tuned…

Last day! Tears, tears and STUFF

It’s the final day of the challenge.

How do I feel? Relieved. Proud. Contemplative.

I’m unsure of what to wear tomorrow…

I have documented the whole experience in a story for www.stuff.co.nz. It says it all. Have a look – there are a few lovely photos too.

Celebrations tomorrow and commiserations as I say goodbye to at least three of my items which are simply finished (I’m talking safety pins, permanent stains, tears – as in fabric tears not tears from my eyes, although it was close!).

Today I take back my wardrobe. But I’m only putting 30 items back (still unlimited accessories, active wear and underwear, plus an extra jacket).

Bring on the seasonal capsule wardrobe!

Thanks for joining me on this particular journey. It’s just one leg of a bigger pathway to finding my ethical and sustainable style.

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One more week to go!

How am I feeling with just one week left of my Six Items Challenge?

I’m getting excited to delve back into my wardrobe and rediscover my clothes. At the same time I think I’ll be sad to let go of my items. And let’s face it, I really will need to let go. Look at the state of them! The pants and dress are fading, the seam at the zip side of the skirt has started to fray, and my epaulette has come off and torn the sleeve of my white top.

One more week to go

To be fair, the skirt and white shirt are old as the hills and the constant wear and washing has pushed them to the edge. I’m considering a temperature-controlled, airtight container to safeguard them for the final dash.

The 100% organic cotton tops have however been legendary!!

They don’t smell, hold their colour, their shape and the quality has not deteriorated. There’s no way your average cotton blend high street top would’ve held up to the challenge. I’ve always balked at the cost of organic cotton but I’m a true convert now.

Not only does organic cotton feel and look great for a very long time, but it has minimal impact on the environment because organically grown cotton uses no pesticides, less water and less energy.

Want to know more? This article from the expectant mother’s guide sums up the facts about the greatness of organic cotton – I’ve pulled one excerpt out below. We know organic is great for babies so why not for children and adults?

Organic cotton also has other perks besides being toxin free. It is safer, sturdier, cheaper and it feels great! Organic clothing may be more expensive when you first buy it, but when compared to the cheaper cotton product it gives you your money’s worth. Conventionally produced cotton material lasts 10-20 washes before it starts to break down. An organic cotton material lasts for 100 washes or more before it begins to wear down. This is because the cotton fibers in conventionally produced cotton take so much abuse in production because it goes through scouring, bleaching, dying, softeners, formaldehyde spray, and flame and soil retardants before it is even shipped to be cut for patterns.

If you’d like a shorter, journalist-penned article about the environmental impacts of conventional cotton versus organic, click here. Or this article, also from Huffington Post, will answer any questions about why it is more expensive (although when you do the maths, it ends up costing less on your wallet, and conveniently less to the planet).

Lastly, a very warm welcome to the new followers that joined over the last week. I’m looking forward to sharing my journey to my own sustainable and ethical style with you. First, let’s get through this! Only one more week to go.

 

Cuts and revelations

If, as the saying goes, a change is as good as a haircut, is a haircut as good as change?

I think so. Or in my case it’s as good as another item. Even though I lost a lot of locks, I gained a new look. A short bob that was so beautifully styled and cut (shout out to Lauren at Collective Hair in Queenstown) that I decided to take photos of all my outfit combinations the same day. Another shout out to the very talented photographer Holly Ingram, and the location, beautiful Queenstown.

Here are a few of the photos. The rest are being held back because toward the end of the challenge, stuff.co.nz, New Zealand’s biggest online daily current affairs publication, will be publishing the photos and the story of my Six Items Challenge in the life and style section. I’m excited to share my experience to a wider audience many of whom don’t know much about where their clothes are made, or why it is – or should be – important. Watch this space.

What new revelations this week, you may be asking?

Well, work colleagues said today that they didn’t even notice that I had been wearing the same six items. Maybe that’s because I accessorise?

Or perhaps it demonstrates that often we don’t notice what people are wearing, unless they don something extra-ordinary that stands out. When you think about it, because people have a certain style of clothes, colours etc, what they wear starts to blend in. Only when they break out something new, or bright, or awesome do we take note. Yes, there are those who will always be noticed, but how we look is mostly overshadowed by our actions, interactions and reactions. At the end of the day, a friend, family member, colleague or stranger that you interact with will remember a smile, a funny joke you told, a positive (or negative) comment, and not what you wore.

That’s what I think, anyway.

Active wear, active wear. Doing stuff in my active wear

The Six Items Challenge allows you unlimited active wear.

I was relieved when I read that disclaimer before starting the challenge, because I practice yoga and like to walk and run. Never did I think I would be in my active wear almost as much as my six items. To make my items last, or because they’re in some stage of washing/drying I have resorted to resort wear, I am actively inactive in active wear! Active wear, active wear, I love and hate my active wear!

Here’s an hilarious video for the theme. Well, this is me now some days – just for a few more weeks anyway… to make my six items last.

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By the way, there are plenty of ethical active wear brands. Good On You has released a list of 11 highly-rated brands, and Aussie-based Eco Princess Warrior has also put together a list of Australian brands.

Please note, Lulu Lemon is not on either list because they rate poorly with ethical and sustainable standards. I mention this because they have huge market share here in New Zealand, especially in Queenstown. Their advertising is all about feeling good, being free, making friends, being kind, and about making the world a better place, so it leaves a slightly bitter taste when you hear that Lulu Athletica the parent company has very poor environmental and social (workers’ rights) ratings in their garment manufacture. Yet people assume the opposite, and pay a lot for the garments. I have two items from Lulu Lemon that were gifted, but I won’t buy from them until they back up their positive affirmations with positive actions. Here’s a great wee article that represents the way I feel.

In terms of shoes…I could definitely look at replacing my smelly old Nikes in the photo, and I’m eyeing a pair of kotare mint Merino woolrunners from Kiwi brand Allbirds.